Bring a big appetite and a little money to this hole-in-the-wall landmark for great Greek grub.

No matter the time of day or night, diverse followers crowd into this zany-looking, converted service station and wait to order at the bustling counter. Slanted floors, plastic blue paneling and tables crammed together are a misleading introduction to this friendly, quick and clean eatery that produces an astonishing amount of food.

Gyros don't get much better than this: Moist, aromatic lamb slices are blanketed by a warm, plushy pita with sweet onions and creamy cucumber-garlic tzatziki sauce. Chickpea croquettes (falafel) sauced with sesame-scented tahini are savory and non-greasy. Stuffed grape leaves can be oily; conversely, the vinegary Greek salad is splendid, crowned with kalamata olives and thick slices of tomato and feta. Juicy lemon-oregano marinated pork chops are char-grilled to perfection and best paired with the award-winning skin-on fries.

To-go orders are popular here. Don't forget to take the addictive honey-drizzled baklava home with you, too.

• Featured on The Food Network's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives (2010).