Decisions are familiar but difficult at this festive chain celebrated for bayou vittles.

Witness the look of mudbug madness in the eyes of devotees huddled at the communal tables. Half-shell fans slurp oysters at the bar. Clean-tasting crawfish, a seasonal draw for Ragin', come steaming, crowned with righteously spicy potatoes and corn on the cob. Too hungry to peel? Try crawfish étouffée or the grilled snapper, fresh and neat with lemon. Don't reach for Tabasco--seafood-packed gumbo is devilishly piquant. Do dip freely into the stellar homemade remoulade.